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Pure & Premier Womenswear, 18-20 August 2002, Olympia, London

WOMENSWEAR HIGHLIGHTS
@ PURE & PREMIER, LONDON

by Dawn C. L. Pedersen
, Editor-in-Chief.

Hot new collections!
A selection of the best contemporary, designer and diffusion collections
for S/S 2003.

www.purewomenswear.co.uk www.premierwomenswear.co.uk

IT’S WHO?
If you are looking for an eye-catching range of printed jersey for your store then look no further than ITSUS a young, funky Canadian label.  Itsus are known best for their graphic design and the clever way they juxtaposition different patterns within a garment.  New to the label this season is a range of vibrantly coloured retro printed sweatshirt jackets.  Their style has been compared to Custo in the past, but theirs is a unique approach using natural cotton jersey and new combinations of images fresh out of their design studio in New York.  New ranges are produced six times per year keeping the look fresh and current.  I spoke to Gemma Davis, their UK agent “customers are initially attracted to the graphics but they keep coming back for more when they discover how well they (the garments) wear”.

www.itsus.ca

JOIN THE CLUB
The I-BLUES CLUB is a beautifully coordinated urban collection incorporating earthy shades and natural fabrics.  The ‘i-Blues Club’ label is a trendy division of the i-Blues Group.  The Italian label caught my eye with their fresh take on combat styles, their all-natural range includes silk georgette, linen silks and cottons with a technical feel.  The ‘parachute line’ with rough edges and pockets everywhere is a real winner for next summer.  The range includes peasant tops and blouses that co-ordinate with their soft separates.  The whole collection is given an edge through their treatment of fabrics to give a ‘used’ finish - styles become less precious and have instant appeal.  The outfit pictured is a sheer silk georgette blouse with a delicate spot and cotton combat pants with zips and cuffs at the hem both from the S/S 2003 range.

foley.r@bld.co.uk
(agency)
LIFT OFF!
Julie Martick is passionate about jewellery!  The MARTICK collections are inspired by personal journeys and there is a story behind almost every piece.  Crosses are hot news at the moment but Martick have been designing extraordinary crosses even replicas of 5th century crosses and heraldic crosses for many seasons.  Other fascinating pieces are chunky beads with a dull finish that have been re-cycled from old soda bottles and solid silver pendants formed from the casts of neolithic spear and axe heads.  There are lots of commercial pieces too using freshwater pearls and pretty hearts though the real 'gems' at the show were the dichroic glass pieces.  This type of dichroic glass was developed by NASA, it resembles moonstone but is given a unique colouration using metallic oxides.  These eye-catching pieces of glass are fashioned into chunky bracelets and pendants.  The driving passions of the designers and attention to detail make this jewellery collection unique - check the website for further information...

www.martickjewellery.com

ANGELIC
A clothing range with its finger on the pulse of current trends is London based NAUGHTY.  Their range encompasses all areas: leather pieces, fancy knitwear, denim, soft suits and pretty separates.  I love their ‘Naughty angel range with cheeky cherub prints and batwing floral printed tops with a dirty, vintage look.  The range is so complete that their next step is into retail (they opened a store in Norwich two weeks ago and one in Belfast a few days ago).  It makes sense for us to go in this direction now and the range is ready!  Pictured is a white linen suit with cross-stitch embroidery from their new S/S 2003 collection.

fashion@naughty.co.uk

GREAT DANE
The new womenswear collection from CCDK is a stunning combination of three very individual and inspirational themes – ‘Retro Sophistication’, ‘Cosmopolitan Contemporary’ and ‘Pioneers’.  CCDK is a Danish company that offers a complete range of trend-led quality clothes.  Their UK agent told me that they're about to open a store here in London and are looking for the right location.  
From the new S/S 2003 range
I spotted a pretty suede jacket in soft beige with a sequin trim (think Louis Vuitton) and a chocolate brown leather skirt with ‘pierced’ rings down the side seams.  The range has a wide appeal – younger customers will be attracted to the more fashionable pieces and older customers will appreciate the high quality.

www.ccdk.com

EXOTIC TRAVELLER
The spring/summer collection by VENTILO - “takes it’s inspiration from peoples who have made wandering their choice…”  Inspiration and crafts are collected from far-flung places and help to give the collection a timeless appeal.  The designer label has always specialized in handcrafted pieces exquisitely embroidered to very high standards making individual items into highly covetable pieces, almost works of art.  Favourite pieces of mine from the new collection are full-skirted Nehru jackets in natural cotton with heavily embroidered shoulders and their beautiful Indian embroidered long, full skirts.  This is their first time showing at Pure as they are looking to expand further into the UK where, at the moment, they have one prime-location store.  If you have ever visited the flagship Ventilo stores in New York, Paris or Brussels you will realize that the company produces much more than womenswear collections instead the label encompasses a whole lifestyle with bags, scarves, belts, jewellery, footwear even homeware.

jbui@ventilo.fr

LIFE’S A BEACH
Perfect for beach babes and anyone who enjoys the relaxed feel of jersey – the SUNANDSAND collection is styled in London and manufactured in France.  The quality of the double combed cotton-rib jersey is the backbone of the company and the range is aimed at two, very different markets.  The first section, in plain jersey is cut into vital shapes with a wide appeal.  The second is a younger, vital (‘roller-disco’ springs to mind) range that has a loyal following and is available from trendy London stores.  This range is coloured in neopolitan ice cream stripes and styled into various skinny tops including halternecks and itsy-bitsy hot pants.  For S/S 2003 they are also featuring a pretty flying-crane print (which I am told is a good luck symbol and taken from a 17th century wood-carving!) in subtle two colour variations alongside plain, key pieces.  Creator of the brand is Wade Bayliss who tells me that the high quality of the fabric and manufacture is a winning combination - I agree!

wade_bayliss@hotmail.com

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