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importance of jacquards cannot be ignored for S/S 2003 and
beyond. Jacquards come in many guises from very subtle shine/matt
patterns on cotton fabrics to heavier almost furnishing
weight brocades. Prada
helped to bring it to our attention but there is a general
movement away from flat colour into tactile effects.
A black top becomes suddenly special when the
fabric is tactile and catches the light with a subtle
woven pattern.Broderie anglaise and embroideries in
general are present and now we are seeing further
variations and the addition of printing with broderie
anglaise edges. The main trend for jersey is a worn washed
look or silky aspects in micro knits that work in the same
way as silky wovens. |
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Denim is still playing with washed and worn looks.
Stripes, as we predicted, are still coming on
strong and look their best in seersucker effects or the
new season’s neon colours.
Although the trends are similar to those reported
on from Tissu Premier there were further variations on
these themes; a further exploration pushing the boundaries...
I
will run through the trends that our subscribers will
already be familiar with from our TRENDZOOM forecast
report for S/S 2003 and spotlight fabric suggestions
within these trends.
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URBAN
SOUL
This is street-influenced
trend with the focus on denim and jersey.
Perfect for this trend is the fabric by MASCHENTEX
(D), a washed-out soft jersey in grey tinted blue. LE DA TEX (I) showed a soft cotton-jersey rib with a
faded shadowy stripe and EUROMA (I) had a
suede-look jersey that had been overprinted with a darker
shade of the same colour to look like rough suede with the
nap going in different directions.
In the denim section we came across a cool version
with a subtle rippled worn-aspect by MONTEBELLO
(I). MARINI
e CECCONI (I) had a chambray blue jacquard, great for
jackets.
MARCO LAGATTOLLA
(I) had an OTT white linen with a black doodle/scribble
embroidery that looked great.
It just didn’t need the black raffia rosettes but
presumably they are
optional? BECAGLI
(I) who specialize in technical fabrics had a tan coloured
mock-suede overprinted with distressed red foil.
KEELERGORDON (UK) have a fab range of print
concepts with lots of ‘urban soul'! |
RETROGRESSIVE
This is the trend for tailoring with a feminine edge –
applied to fabrics we must look towards the soft and
supple. FARELEIROS
(P) specialize in wool and worsted blends and showed a
deep-crimson wool with a soft, supple feel.
R. ALLEGRI, RISERVA BLU (I) have a
russet colour crepe-jersey – very fine and stretchy -
perfect for draped jersey dresses and tops.
BOGGIO CASSERO (I) had a very sombre
ink-black double faced suiting and CHIERICETTI (I)
had a stretch suiting also in inky blue with a wide-spaced
red pinstripe and soft finish.
Blouse prints for this trend would be modern geometrics
like the crinkle chiffon in peppermint green with a stripy
circular pattern in brown, blue and beige by RATTI
FASHION (I).
Patterned jacquards are an ideal base for tailored skirts
and shell tops – a simple pattern like a shiny aqua
woven with a gold-colour pea spot fits the bill by BUCOL
(F). For that
metallic look try BIANCHINI (F) who had a brocade
quality in metallic pink/copper squares onto a white base
and ONES (I) have a beige jacquard with stripes of
blue/brown floral brocade. |
ETHNIC
GENERIC
To fit this trend, influenced by ethnic handicrafts and
traditions from all over the world the fabrics and trims
chosen are a melting-pot of textures and colours.
We
saw a beautiful light-weight denim at the show by ASPESI
(I) with narrow strips of reverse self zig-zag stitched
into a rose pattern (also available in white) – perfect
for a skirt! We
saw a rough sackcloth with a single ‘still life’
floral design printed onto the surface - an unusual
contrast from NEOSETA (I) who showed a big
collection of jacquard and printed designs.
A gypsy-style fabric by ZIBETTI (I) seemed
to be generating a lot of interest in red cotton with a
printed spot in multi-colours with a broderie anglaise
scalloped border in beige.
Another broderie-anglaise-type, this time on a
chambray with an alternate floral/cut-through embroidery
in stripes by WALTER BÖHI (A).
A cotton poplin in powder beige was given an
unusual twist by LEGGIUNO (I) who gave it a small
regular spot in tufted red chenille.
Another pretty application, on white poplin this
time, was a small pretty ‘Mary Quant’-style daisy in
red with a yellow centre by STOTZ (CH). |
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Pin-tucking
is a popular process and EUGSTER & HUBER (CH)
have cotton with alternate bands of jacquard pattern and
pin-tucks. Cheesecloth
also has an ethnic quality and one from DEVEAUX (F)
in a red/white/pink shadow check looked perfect for
blouses and dresses.
Braided and crochet trims are having a moment and on the
heavier side SOUFFRE (F) had lots of wire versions
in a contrasting matt/dull finish.
A delicate crochet edging with pink threaded ribbon
looked very pretty from MAURI ANGELO (I).
The chunky ethnic-style buckles for belts that
finish this look are available from FIBEL SNC (I). |
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OPHELIA
This trend embraces the sheer and sensual and this relates
directly into fabric with the emphasis on sheer silky
aspects.
PHILEA
TEXTILES
(F) have an interesting woven stripe in shades of blue –
good for shirts, blouses and dresses.
There was a pretty silk with embroidered roses in a
space-dyed running stitch by BISCHOFF (CH) and a
very unusual white linen from ZIBETTI (I) with soft
printed flowers and frayed sheer fabric applied onto the
print and held in place with a gold stitch for an overall
delicate look perfect for skirts and dresses. |
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There
was a lovely print at the show (see left) in white with a
wavy green-stemmed orchid print that had then been
processed into a wavy rippled effect to complement the
line of the flowers by LA LINEA DESIGN (A).
SFATE et COMBIER (F) have a pale pink
chiffon with a dotty floral print in a raised shimmer,
ideal for floaty blouses and dresses and a good
alternative to other hand-applied decoration.
A pretty floral print in pale khaki and dusty pink
with a white outline in soft micro-jersey came from LIEBAERT
(B). |
NEON
SANDS
This is our swimwear trend in near-neon colours - I will
include some swimwear fabrics here but the important focus
is on colour. Ideal
for summer, we found a white swimwear fabric with a glossy
floral print by SIR GROUP (I). |
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Microfibres
really take to these bright neon colours; BILLON FRERES
(F) featured a very, very wide stripe in cream/taupe and
bright pink and another quality in neon pink with a
tactile rose pattern.These
hot neon pinks also featured in natural fabrications.
One by ARTECA (I) had a shimmer coating for
extra brightness. A
pretty ribbon-stripe in varying widths from UMT-COMO
(I) on a lightweight base looked ideal for blouses in
bright shades of pink/yellow/orange and blue.
Another stripe in creamy taupe enlivened with
space-dye pinstripes of turq/green/hot pink and orange by TESSILIDEA
(I). |
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CYBER
CULTURE
A high-tech trend using fabrics with advanced
technologies. I
really liked a couple of jerseys with cut-out effects.
One was a fine dark brown jersey with four small
holes in a diamond shape perfect for tank tops by EMMECI-TESSUTO
(I). The
other by JACKYTEX (I) was a black micro jersey with
eye-shaped holes in varying sizes ordered into undulating
lines – again perfect for tanks, vests and dresses.
RIRI
(CH) showcased their new water and ‘everything-proof’
zipper called ‘Storm’, perfect for watersports!
Dawn
C. L. Pedersen |
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CONTACTS:
please
mention your source! www.fashioninformation.com
www.premierevision.fr
worldwide clothing fabrics show
www.modamont.net
international fashion supplies and accessories show
www.textile-creation.com
international exhibition of creative textile design
ARTECA
(I) tel: (39) 045 887 1711
ASPESI (I) aspesi@tread.it
BECAGLI (I) tel: (39) 0574 6594
BIANCHINI (F) www.bianchini-ferier.com
baumann@bianchini-ferier.com
BILLON FRERES (F) sales@billon.com
BISCHOFF (CH) www.bischoff-textil.com
bitex@bischoff-textil.com
BOGGIO CASSERO (I) www.oresteboggiocasero
info@oresteboggiocasero.it
BUCOL (F) bucol@bucol.com
CHIERICETTI (I) www.chiericetti.com
info@chierichetti.com
DEVEAUX (F) deveaux@wanadoo.fr
EMMECI-TESSUTO (I) emmeci@emmeci-spa.com
EUGSTER & HUBER (CH) info@euguster-huber.ch
EUROMA (I) aalessi@euromaspa.it
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FARELEIROS
(P) www.fareleiros-sa.pt
sales@fareleiros-sa.pt
FIBEL SNC (I) www.fibel.it
fibel@ala.itKEELERGORDON
(UK) lucy@keelergordon.com
LA LINEA DESIGN whilelm.darnhofer@lalinea.at
LE DA TEX (I) www.ledatex.it
ledatex@ledatex.it
LEGGIUNO (I) www.leggiunospa.it
info@leggiunospa.it
LIEBAERT (B) www.liebaert.com info@liebaert.com
MARCO LAGATTOLLA (I) www.marcolagattolla.it
lagattolla@marcolagattolla.it
MARINI e CECCONI (I) Maurice@marinicecconi.it
MASCHENTEX (D) info@maschentex.de
MAURI ANGELO (I) www.mauriangelo.it
mauri@mauriangelo.it
MONTEBELLO (I) Montebello@gruppobonazzi.com
NEOSETA (I) neoseta@tiscalinet.it
ONES (I) ones@mdm-net.it
PHILEA TEXTILES (F) philea@newel.net
RATTI FASHION (I) tel: (39) 031 3535202
RIRI (CH) www.riri.com
riri@riri.com
R. ALLEGRI, RISERVA BLU (I) tel: (39) 055 87471
SFATE et COMBIER (F) sfate-et-combier@wanadoo.fr
SIR GROUP (I) sirgroup@tin.it
SOUFFRE (F) www.souffre.fr.st
souffre@hotmail.com
STOTZ (CH) info@stotzfabrics.ch
TESSILIDEA (I) tessilidea@tessilidea.it
UMT-COMO (I) tel: (39) 031 904388
ZIBETTI (I) tel: (39) 0331 226500
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